Please note:

I do not accept queens under the age of 12 months.
Queens must be on the active register.
I reserve the right to refuse to allow a queen to mate when I see her if I feel that she is significantly out of condition, too small or immature.

Before coming to stud, please:

• Trim your queen’s claws carefully;
• Arrange with your vet to have her blood-tested for FIV and FeLV and PCR swabbed (see below, Testing);
• Worm her: it is always best not to do anything with drugs during a pregnancy, no matter what the vets or the packets say. Why take an unnecessary risk?
• CHECK the due dates! If there is any chance you will not be on hand for the few days before and after your girl’s due dates and/or may not be able to look after the litter of kittens then you must not mate her. Sounds stupid, but people do get it wrong because they forgot to check!


Since Herpes or Calici could spell disaster for a breeding community just as much as FeLV or FIV, and Chlamydia can involve the huge cost of treating a whole household of cats, I require a full set of tests before accepting a cat to stud: FeLV, FIV snap test, and PCR swab tests for Herpes, Calici and Chlamydia, since cats vaccinated against all of these things can still carry the illness without showing symptoms. PCR swabs take about a week to get results, so it’s advisable to do all your tests a week or two (but preferably not more than 2 weeks) in advance of the time you might wish to come to stud — as long as the queen or your other cats do not go out to a show or other stud in the intervening time as they may pick up illness and pass it to the queen – I know that queens are not always able to keep to a timetable, so please do consult me if you want to bring your girl to stud or if you’re about to have tests done. Because of the cost of these additional tests (around £100 in addition to the usual FeLV/FIV — it should not be more than this!) my stud fee is so that breeders are not paying more to come to me than to go to other studs.

If your vet says it will cost £300 to run the PCR for 3 diseases please tell them that a complete panel, including Mycoplasma and Bordatella, is done by Axiom labs for £85+VAT. I can send you a sample result certificate if that would be useful.

Remember that the extra tests I require mean that ANY visiting queen has had the same tests, and that gives you the best possible protection for your cat because you know my stud has NOT been in contact with a cat carrying cat flu before your cat came to him. Please don't ask me to make an exception for your cat: cat flu can kill kittens and wipe out breeding households if the cats become carriers, because they all have to be neutered, and I will not put my cats, or anyone else's, at risk.

You will need to bring the following items with your queen:

• Some of her regular litter (perhaps slightly used). I have newspaper pellets and corn-based clumping, but the smell is helpful for the stud;
• Some of her favourite food, and a note of anything she particularly likes or dislikes;
• Some bedding that smells of home, and that is easily washable (it will probably go home stinking of stud cat!);
• A copy of her pedigree that I can keep;
• Her registration certificate. Please make sure that if you did not breed her this indicates that she is on the active register. If her certificate says that kittens from her may not be registered, then I cannot have her in to stud;
• The test certificate or letter from your vet giving the results of her blood tests and the PCR panel certificate (which can be forwarded in advance if you received it by email).

Stud fee:

This is currently £250. If the mating is unsuccessful the queen may return for a free second mating, but if she has been out to a show or there has been a long hiatus she must be re-tested.
If there is no successful outcome the stud fee will be refunded.

Stud contract:

1. Kittens should be registered preferably with GCCF, but otherwise with another registration body.

2. Kittens sold as pets, and not for breeding, must be neutered within 6 months, and placed on the ‘inactive’ register. I would be grateful if you could ensure your owners follow this rule, as otherwise they may end up being bred from by someone unscrupulous!

3. If you wish to keep female kittens for breeding yourself that is fine. If you wish to sell a female for breeding I would like to be kept informed, and I assume you will make every effort to ensure a breeder, if they are new to the Tonkinese, is properly supported and you have made sure they know exactly what they’re getting into!

4. I do not allow Selling or keeping a male kitten for stud without specific permission. This is because keeping a boy is very complicated, it can lead to problems with neighbours because they are very noisy, and many people don’t really have any idea of how difficult and time-consuming keeping a stud can be, particularly with the boy spraying urine everywhere and making a terrible stink! Also, looking after someone else’s queen and ensuring they are not hurt or that they do not attack the boy after mating is difficult. I am happy to consider it, but only if I can talk to the person first and make sure they know exactly what is involved.